eRobertParker.com recently released their scores for several Domaine Andre Kientzler wines, and the reviews were glowing!
First, an overview of the winery:
“Éric and his brother Thierry Kientzler are the 5th generation of this family domaine, which is located in the Haguenau vineyard outside the village of Ribeauvillé and got famous thanks to the unflinching André Kientzler, who never lost his way producing straight and dry Rieslings. This has not changed with his sons who are cultivating 14 hectares of vineyards of which 80% are located in the hillsides of Ribeauvillé. 4.5 hectares are located in Grand Cru vineyards of which three – Osterberg, Kirchberg and the steep and terraced Geisberg – are in Ribeauvillé whereas the prestigious Schoenenbourg remains in Riquewihr. The Kientzlers pay great attention for old vines that are carefully maintained to last as long as possible. “Their development and grapes build up a natural balance between sweetness and acidity,” says Éric, who also believes that “stronger plants are less sensitive to rot and illness,” but is – not yet? – farming organic. Since the family has quite a lot of old vines between 35 and 80 years, they select each graft from a different vine stock (massale selection) in order to maintain a genetic diversity within the plot. They also prefer grafting on old root stocks instead of replanting. Riesling is still king at Domaine Kientzler, but readers should also taste the 2014 Muscat from the Kirchberg, which is one of the very rare Alsatian Muscats that is marketed as Grand Cru. Kientzler’s lush and fairly sweet old vines, Auxerrois K from the Grand Cru Kirchberg, is another specialty of the family, but did not really convince me since the K letter does neither represent the Kirchberg (at least not at this early stage) nor the dry Kientzler style. The 2014 Rieslings are very good but the late released 2012 Geisberg is really impressive. Also the Pinots Gris are recommendable, whereas the 2014 Gewurztraminer Haguenau reflects the drosophila suzuki problems of the vintage impressively.”
2014 Kientzler Muscat Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauville-90 points
“One of the rare Grand Crus made with Muscat, the 2014 Muscat Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauville is a selection from 60 years old Muscat Ottonel vines that give this highly elegant and densely woven wine a salty complexity, which you can’t find in Muscat from young vines. The 2014 starts very intense and deep on the nose, and is by far not that perfumed and aromatic in its flavors than conventional Muscats; but it is seriously deep and concentrated, displaying some citrus flavors like oranges and grapefruit. Round and elegant on the palate, the medium to full-bodied Kirchberg Muscat reveals an impressive purity and elegance on the palate, and finishes with a very nice, lingering mineral salinity and aromatic concentration. Gorgeous!”
2014 Kientzler Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauville-90+points
“The 2014 Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauville opens very clear, precise and deep on the elegant nose displaying yellow-fleshed fruits. Full-bodied, powerful and firmly structured on the palate, this is a complex and persistent dry Riesling with nutty flavors, a piquant acidity and mineral roughness leading to a really grippy, salty finish with very good length. Very good aging potential.”
2012 Kientzler Riesling Grand Cru Geisberg-93+ points
“This wine has the most aging potential. Noble, deep, and elegant on the nose, the 2012 Riesling Grand Cru Geisberg displays a highly complex, concentrated, and intense bouquet of lime and almond oil, white and yellow stone fruit extracts, and crushed stones along with some herbal notes. This wine would benefit from a big glass or a long aeration. Full-bodied and almost glycerinic on the palate, this is a dry, rich, concentrated, and intense wine with a firm and persistently mineral structure; it has a very persistent, piquant, and salty finish that continues the intensity and concentration of this remarkably tension-filled and terroir-driven wine, which should be aged for another three or five years — though can be aged for 15 years and more.”
2014 Kientzler Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg-89+ points
“Very clear and characterful on the nose, the 2014 Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg displays white peach aromas along with nice lemon flavors. Lean, straight, and focused but also very refined on the palate, this Riesling from the east-facing cru above Ribeauvillé has a chalky texture and reveals a stimulating purity. The finish is very mineral and intense, and the aftertaste is truly refreshing with its almost piquant limey flavors. Excellent quality. Drink over the next 10+ years.”